The show opened with the calls of Turkish singer Emre Zaim Demirtas under the slow strobe of a warm yellow spotlight, which illuminated dancers in long golden skirts against the concrete walls of Berghain, while the steady beat of Russian DJ Dasha Rush came in to coral the skirted figures into a concentric formation. The movement starts excruciatingly slowly, then growing larger with the music as figures join and the concrete dance floor is turned into a tempest of flaring limbs with gilded fabric rippling in the wake. You easily forget after the first minute that it is a “fashion show.”
The ZONE 005 presentation doesn’t have much in common with a traditional catwalk and felt very far away from the shows of Berlin Fashion Week, but it is part of the UY identity to stray from fashion conventions. While many brands take inspiration from the dark dance floors of the German capital, UY is also producing pieces that find their way back to the city’s techno temples. Founded by Israeli and Swedish designers Idan Gilony and Fanny Lawaetz in 2013, the label focuses on creating handmade pieces from local markets and doesn’t do divisions like gender, age or season.
Gilony tells SLEEK about the inspiration behind the spectacle and why a catwalk doesn’t cut it in this town: